Simon Moya-Smith: The Kansas City Chiefs in Super Bowl LIV will shine. So will their fans’ racism.

The Kansas City Chiefs will play the San Francisco 49ers in Miami on Sunday, accompanied by fans in headdresses and warpaint performing tomahawk chops.
— Read on www.nbcnews.com/think/opinion/kansas-city-chiefs-super-bowl-liv-will-shine-so-will-ncna1128171

The Crate is Great!

DOGma by Vet Tech Groomer Girl

CRATE TRAINING 😜 CRAZY!

If you are bringing in a new FURkid into the family, whether they are puppies or adult dogs, you will want to make sure that they are as happy, physically/emotionally comfortable and as healthy as possible. but you also need to make sure your new furry BFF is not scratching at the doors, eating drywall, destroying your furniture and peeing everywhere. The answer? Crate Training.

This will not only help lesson the chances of them having accidents while you’re away, but it will give them a safe place to stay when they get anxious and will help make the next steps in training that much easier.

SLOW and STEADY

Imagine this: you’re in a brand-new area and your “parents” get home with a big box and simply lock you inside it the second you arrive. Doesn’t that sound fun? Consider that when introducing a crate to your dog. For both your sanity and the comfort of your dog, slowly and casually introduce a crate. You want the crate to be considered a “safe space” and something they can enjoy.

Try taking the crate to an area of the home your dog already spends a lot of time in and allow them to explore it on their own. If they’re a little hesitant, gently encourage them to go inside by putting some of their favorite toys or treats in there. According to House Method, you should leave warm blankets or a cozy bed in the crate or a garment of clothing that has your scent on it, to make your pup feel more comfortable when you’re away. While some dogs may immediately take to the crate, don’t push your dog if they aren’t immediately into it. This may take a couple of days, and sometimes even weeks, but patience is key.

CRATE WHEN YOU PLATE

One of the best ways to use positive reinforcement is through food. Piggybacking off the notion of taking crate training easy, try putting your dog’s meals or treats in the back of the crate in order to gently encourage them to enter the crate. Dogs are very food-driven, so they’re bound to enter the crate at some point. If your dog is still unwilling to go all the way into the crate, try putting the food right next to the crate, then in the very front of the crate, and gradually move it into the crate.

CLOSE THE GATE

When your dog is able to enter the crate completely to eat their meal, now is the time to close the gate. Remember, the point of putting the food in the crate in the first place is to get them comfortable in the crate, and the door is meant to be shut. Once your dog is done eating with the door closed for the first time, open the door immediately to let them out. Gradually increase the amount of time it takes to open the door back up after eating. If your dog starts to whine during, try waiting until he stops whining to let him out. Continuously opening the door when your dog starts whining could result in him learning that whining equals being let out of the crate.

EXTEND CRATE TIME

Once your dog is comfortable staying in crate with the gate closed, begin extending the time they’re in their crate. Start by staying near the crate, maybe even reading to them or sharing your activity with them when they’re in the crate, followed by moving to other parts of the home, outside of their field of vision. When you come back, don’t immediately let them out of the crate. Continue to be near them for a few more minutes while keeping your voice and energy calm and relaxed, and then open the door.

Gradually increase the amount of time you’re in another room until your dog is in their crate for at least 30 minutes. At that point, they should be ready to be alone for short periods of time and may be ready to sleep in their crate overnight. According to the Humane Society, puppies cannot hold their pee as long as older dogs and may not be able to stay in their kennel the entire night without having to be let out to go to go potty. So, you may want to keep the crate close to your bedside just in case they whine for you to let them out at night if needed.

PRAISE AND TREATS ALWAYS

When it’s time to leave your dog in their crate while you leave the house, be sure to keep the crating as casual as possible while also using gentle praise when they enter and leave the crate. Avoid extreme excitement when you come home and let them out of the crate. Gently praise them when they enter the crate so you can leave, and when you come home, try to not match their excitement when you let them out.

SOURCES: Some Excerpts and Sources: Well & Good, Humane Society, ASPCA

PAWmaste.

Dorothy Cline

The Ugly Truth About RAWHIDE!

How can one of the most popular chew sticks on the planet be so dangerous for your pets?

As a licensed Vet Tech, I have personally triaged dogs and assisted on many emergency surgeries from dogs consuming rawhide; either choking on it or developing dangerous bowel obstructions. Just check the product label. It ACTUALLY warns that these exact incidences can happen. Another major concern (besides intestinal blockage, pain, bloat, choking and death!) is where these rawhide chews are made.

So, let’s start with what the heck rawhide really is. The name ‘rawhide’ is technically incorrect. A more accurate name would be ‘processed-hide’, as the hide (skin) isn’t raw at all.

Rawhide is not dehydrated-meat or the by-product of the beef industry. Rawhide is actually the by-product of the “Leather Industry”, so theoretically it is a leather chew. Rawhide chews are made from the leather industry’s leftovers. Most hides are taken directly from the kill floors at slaughterhouses and placed into high-salt brines, which helps slow their decay (Insert gag reflex here!).

“Producing rawhide begins with the splitting of an animal hide, usually from cattle. The top layer (grain) is generally tanned and made into leather products, while the inner layer, in its “raw” state, goes to the dogs.” (TheBark.com )

The following is a paraphrased tutorial by The Whole Dog Journal from a few years ago. It explains in scary detail just how this toxic leather is processed and how it ends up in cute little enticing shapes and marketed directly to unassuming Pet Parents who innocently believe that rawhide is a dried “meat stick” and will release stress and reward our fury BFF’s with hours of fun. Wrong!

STEP 1: Normally, cattle hides are shipped from slaughterhouses to tanneries for processing. These hides are then soaked in brine and treated with a chemical bath to help “preserve” the product during transport and to help prevent spoilage. Keep in mind, some of these hides are shipping from China and other countries which means more chemicals as brine alone does not preserve.

Once at the tannery: the hides are soaked again and treated with either an ash-lye solution or a highly toxic recipe of sodium sulphide liming. This process will help strip the hair and fat (yuck!) that may be attached to the hides themselves. These hides are then treated with more chemicals that help “puff” the hide, making it easier to split into layers.

The outer layer of the hide is used for goods like car seats, clothing, shoes, handbags, luggage, etc. But, it’s the inner layer, (along with gelatin and glue!) that is needed to make the rawhide.

STEP 2: Now that we have the inner layer of the hide, it’s time to go to the post-tannery stage! Hides are washed and whitened using a solution of hydrogen peroxide, bleach (and even harsher chemical whiteners). These chemicals will also help mask the smell of the rotten leather. Yummm! 😡🤮

STEP 3: Now it’s time to make these whitened sheets of “leathery by-product” look delicious! This is where the creative artistic process comes in.

“Basted, smoked, and tinted (painted) products can be made literally any color (or shape and scent) underneath the coating made of yet more dyes and preservatives. They can even be painted with a coating of titanium oxide (what???!!!) to make them appear whiter and aesthetically pleasing from a merchandising perspective.”

“…the Material Safety Data Sheet reveals a toxic confection containing the carcinogen FD&C Red 40, along with preservatives like sodium benzoate. But tracking the effects of chemical exposure is nearly impossible when it’s a matter of slow, low-dose poisoning.”– (thebark.com)

STEP 4:

Because the FDA does not consider these chews to be “food”, it’s an open market when it comes to the manufacturers. You see, with no restrictions on these leather strips (since they are not considered consumable food by the FDA), they are free to add basically anything to these chewies, to ensure that they last forever. Any type of glue may be added to get them to hold together and last forever. WHEN TESTED: Lead, arsenic, mercury, chromium salts, formaldehyde, and other toxic chemicals have been detected in raw hide chews. .

Rawhide chews start out hard, but as your dog works the chew it becomes softer, and eventually he can unknot the knots on each end and the chew takes on the consistency of a slimy piece of taffy or bubble gum. And by that time your dog cannot stop working it — it becomes almost addictive.

Some Healthy Alternatives to Rawhide:

-Antlers. Deer and elk antlers are fantastic treats for your pet.

-Sweet Potato Chews. Sweet potatoes are the ultimate light snack for your pup and good for the digestion. HOWEVER very high in carbs. So moderate.

-Frozen Carrots. Frozen carrots are natural treats that most dogs love.

-Greenies

-Bully Stix

-Zuke’s Dental 🦷Bones

-Chew-A-Bulls

-Collagen

PAWmaste!

Dorothy Cline

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