iloveveterinary.com/blog/leptospirosis-in-dogs-all-you-need-to-know/

DOGma by Vet Tech Groomer Girl

CRATE TRAINING 😜 CRAZY!

If you are bringing in a new FURkid into the family, whether they are puppies or adult dogs, you will want to make sure that they are as happy, physically/emotionally comfortable and as healthy as possible. but you also need to make sure your new furry BFF is not scratching at the doors, eating drywall, destroying your furniture and peeing everywhere. The answer? Crate Training.

This will not only help lesson the chances of them having accidents while you’re away, but it will give them a safe place to stay when they get anxious and will help make the next steps in training that much easier.

SLOW and STEADY

Imagine this: you’re in a brand-new area and your “parents” get home with a big box and simply lock you inside it the second you arrive. Doesn’t that sound fun? Consider that when introducing a crate to your dog. For both your sanity and the comfort of your dog, slowly and casually introduce a crate. You want the crate to be considered a “safe space” and something they can enjoy.

Try taking the crate to an area of the home your dog already spends a lot of time in and allow them to explore it on their own. If they’re a little hesitant, gently encourage them to go inside by putting some of their favorite toys or treats in there. According to House Method, you should leave warm blankets or a cozy bed in the crate or a garment of clothing that has your scent on it, to make your pup feel more comfortable when you’re away. While some dogs may immediately take to the crate, don’t push your dog if they aren’t immediately into it. This may take a couple of days, and sometimes even weeks, but patience is key.

CRATE WHEN YOU PLATE

One of the best ways to use positive reinforcement is through food. Piggybacking off the notion of taking crate training easy, try putting your dog’s meals or treats in the back of the crate in order to gently encourage them to enter the crate. Dogs are very food-driven, so they’re bound to enter the crate at some point. If your dog is still unwilling to go all the way into the crate, try putting the food right next to the crate, then in the very front of the crate, and gradually move it into the crate.

CLOSE THE GATE

When your dog is able to enter the crate completely to eat their meal, now is the time to close the gate. Remember, the point of putting the food in the crate in the first place is to get them comfortable in the crate, and the door is meant to be shut. Once your dog is done eating with the door closed for the first time, open the door immediately to let them out. Gradually increase the amount of time it takes to open the door back up after eating. If your dog starts to whine during, try waiting until he stops whining to let him out. Continuously opening the door when your dog starts whining could result in him learning that whining equals being let out of the crate.

EXTEND CRATE TIME

Once your dog is comfortable staying in crate with the gate closed, begin extending the time they’re in their crate. Start by staying near the crate, maybe even reading to them or sharing your activity with them when they’re in the crate, followed by moving to other parts of the home, outside of their field of vision. When you come back, don’t immediately let them out of the crate. Continue to be near them for a few more minutes while keeping your voice and energy calm and relaxed, and then open the door.

Gradually increase the amount of time you’re in another room until your dog is in their crate for at least 30 minutes. At that point, they should be ready to be alone for short periods of time and may be ready to sleep in their crate overnight. According to the Humane Society, puppies cannot hold their pee as long as older dogs and may not be able to stay in their kennel the entire night without having to be let out to go to go potty. So, you may want to keep the crate close to your bedside just in case they whine for you to let them out at night if needed.

PRAISE AND TREATS ALWAYS

When it’s time to leave your dog in their crate while you leave the house, be sure to keep the crating as casual as possible while also using gentle praise when they enter and leave the crate. Avoid extreme excitement when you come home and let them out of the crate. Gently praise them when they enter the crate so you can leave, and when you come home, try to not match their excitement when you let them out.

SOURCES: Some Excerpts and Sources: Well & Good, Humane Society, ASPCA

PAWmaste.

Dorothy Cline

How can one of the most popular chew sticks on the planet be so dangerous for your pets?

As a licensed Vet Tech, I have personally triaged dogs and assisted on many emergency surgeries from dogs consuming rawhide; either choking on it or developing dangerous bowel obstructions. Just check the product label. It ACTUALLY warns that these exact incidences can happen. Another major concern (besides intestinal blockage, pain, bloat, choking and death!) is where these rawhide chews are made.

So, let’s start with what the heck rawhide really is. The name ‘rawhide’ is technically incorrect. A more accurate name would be ‘processed-hide’, as the hide (skin) isn’t raw at all.

Rawhide is not dehydrated-meat or the by-product of the beef industry. Rawhide is actually the by-product of the “Leather Industry”, so theoretically it is a leather chew. Rawhide chews are made from the leather industry’s leftovers. Most hides are taken directly from the kill floors at slaughterhouses and placed into high-salt brines, which helps slow their decay (Insert gag reflex here!).

“Producing rawhide begins with the splitting of an animal hide, usually from cattle. The top layer (grain) is generally tanned and made into leather products, while the inner layer, in its “raw” state, goes to the dogs.” (TheBark.com )

The following is a paraphrased tutorial by The Whole Dog Journal from a few years ago. It explains in scary detail just how this toxic leather is processed and how it ends up in cute little enticing shapes and marketed directly to unassuming Pet Parents who innocently believe that rawhide is a dried “meat stick” and will release stress and reward our fury BFF’s with hours of fun. Wrong!

STEP 1: Normally, cattle hides are shipped from slaughterhouses to tanneries for processing. These hides are then soaked in brine and treated with a chemical bath to help “preserve” the product during transport and to help prevent spoilage. Keep in mind, some of these hides are shipping from China and other countries which means more chemicals as brine alone does not preserve.

Once at the tannery: the hides are soaked again and treated with either an ash-lye solution or a highly toxic recipe of sodium sulphide liming. This process will help strip the hair and fat (yuck!) that may be attached to the hides themselves. These hides are then treated with more chemicals that help “puff” the hide, making it easier to split into layers.

The outer layer of the hide is used for goods like car seats, clothing, shoes, handbags, luggage, etc. But, it’s the inner layer, (along with gelatin and glue!) that is needed to make the rawhide.

STEP 2: Now that we have the inner layer of the hide, it’s time to go to the post-tannery stage! Hides are washed and whitened using a solution of hydrogen peroxide, bleach (and even harsher chemical whiteners). These chemicals will also help mask the smell of the rotten leather. Yummm! 😡🤮

STEP 3: Now it’s time to make these whitened sheets of “leathery by-product” look delicious! This is where the creative artistic process comes in.

“Basted, smoked, and tinted (painted) products can be made literally any color (or shape and scent) underneath the coating made of yet more dyes and preservatives. They can even be painted with a coating of titanium oxide (what???!!!) to make them appear whiter and aesthetically pleasing from a merchandising perspective.”

“…the Material Safety Data Sheet reveals a toxic confection containing the carcinogen FD&C Red 40, along with preservatives like sodium benzoate. But tracking the effects of chemical exposure is nearly impossible when it’s a matter of slow, low-dose poisoning.”– (thebark.com)

STEP 4:

Because the FDA does not consider these chews to be “food”, it’s an open market when it comes to the manufacturers. You see, with no restrictions on these leather strips (since they are not considered consumable food by the FDA), they are free to add basically anything to these chewies, to ensure that they last forever. Any type of glue may be added to get them to hold together and last forever. WHEN TESTED: Lead, arsenic, mercury, chromium salts, formaldehyde, and other toxic chemicals have been detected in raw hide chews. .

Rawhide chews start out hard, but as your dog works the chew it becomes softer, and eventually he can unknot the knots on each end and the chew takes on the consistency of a slimy piece of taffy or bubble gum. And by that time your dog cannot stop working it — it becomes almost addictive.

Some Healthy Alternatives to Rawhide:

-Antlers. Deer and elk antlers are fantastic treats for your pet.

-Sweet Potato Chews. Sweet potatoes are the ultimate light snack for your pup and good for the digestion. HOWEVER very high in carbs. So moderate.

-Frozen Carrots. Frozen carrots are natural treats that most dogs love.

-Greenies

-Bully Stix

-Zuke’s Dental 🦷Bones

PAWmaste!

Dorothy Cline

Nature therapy may mean that better health is right outside your door…literally!

If you want to ‘LIFT’ your spirit, you must GROUND your Soul. Why else do you think your ‘SOLE’ is on the bottom of your FEET!? Connecting with nature, or Earthing, is essential to a healthy ‘Mind-Body-Spirit’ and it has vital effects on longevity and optimizing your health.

For example, Eco-Therapy can help you manage an existing mental health problem as well as prevent future DIS-eases and episodes of Depression. Scientists have long known that sunlight can ease depression, especially Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD). New research is expanding these findings every day. A 2007 study from the University of Essex in the U.K., for example, found that 71% of participants who had depression, greatly benefitted from a walk in the country and communing with nature. The researchers found that as little as 5-7 minutes per day, in a natural setting, whether walking in a park or gardening in the backyard, improves mood, self-esteem, and motivation.

There are many types of “Green” Therapy; however, I am most passionate about

ECO-THERAPY programs;

~(AAI) Animal Assisted Interventions: This therapy is less structured than “one-on-one” AAT (Animal Assisted Therapy) and simply involves; • Spending relaxed time amongst animals in their natural environments, feeding, brushing or petting them.

~(AAT) Animal Assisted Therapy: A very selective therapeutic relationship utilizing certified or licensed “Therapy/Emotional Support Animals”- • The focus of AAT is on the powerful interaction and empathetic bonding between the patient and the animal and is lead by an experienced counselor or therapist.

•Usually “one-to-one” and especially effective in healing patients suffering from ADHD, Autism Spectrum Disorder, PTSD, Injury, Chronic Pain, Depression, Senility or Alzheimer’s, Hospice Care or other DIS-eases.

~EARTHING Therapy: As sentient beings we thrive on the connection to nature and touch and this therapy is based on the healing and spiritual growth nurtured by the sacred interaction with Mother Earth. Living in direct contact with the Earth grounds the body inducing many key Physiological and Electrophysiological charges that promote optimum health.

~’Letters From My Inner Child‘ (this brand and title trademarked by ME!)

Wellness & Healing Workshops: Multi-level group healing activities, creative writing for healing, intuitive games, education and ABA therapy sessions. The primary purpose of my groups is to repair or reconstruct the authentic SELF, practice ‘Connection’ and learn vital tools on how to navigate our ‘Emotional Minefields’. We will establish trust and cohesion, resolve trauma, conflict and struggle and just ‘have fun’ in a safe, healing environment. Additionally, our women’s groups allow us, as the ‘SHEroes’ we are, to re-establish or develop connections and satisfying, nurturing relationships where feelings such as sadness, loss, fear, anxiety, anger are not only ‘tolerated’, but understood, respected and worked with in a loving, empathetic ‘village’.

How can Eco-Therapy help me?

~Here are just a few of the common benefits associated with Eco-Therapy and it’s combination of outdoor activities and communing with nature:

~Improves mental health

~Improves physical health

~Ignites the 5 Senses

~Boosts self confidence

~Strengthens The Earthing Process

~Reminds you to practice daily gratitude and mindfulness

~Lowers Blood Pressure

~Helps you live in the present moment

~Lifts the veil of Depression

~Improves Circadian Rhythms

~Releases the ‘Happy Hormones’ (Endorphins, Serotonin, Dopamine and Oxytocin)

AND THE GOOD NEWS IS! We are not alone in this theory that rooting yourself and making a connection to the Earth daily is all the RX you need, Health care providers are now also giving their patients “nature prescriptions” to help treat a variety of medical conditions, from post-cancer fatigue to obesity, high blood pressure, and diabetes. Yay US!

Have a beautiful, authentic life and I hope you dance!

Namaste.

Dorothy

Check out the X-ray image below of a 3 week old puppy.

Look at how far apart the bone growth plates are!

Growth plates are regions of cartilage that sit at the ends of the long bones. The growth plates are vulnerable to being injured and potentially fractured because they are the last portion of the bones to harden are.

As a puppy grows and develops, moving, stretching and working their muscles, hormonal changes trigger cartilage to calcify and develop into a denser harder matter. These plates contain rapidly dividing cells that allow bones to become longer until the end of puberty. Growth plates gradually thin as hormonal changes approaching puberty signal the growth plates to close and connect the bones.

A dog’s long bones do not develop from the center outward; instead, growth occurs right by the growth plate at the end of the long bones. The main problem is the fact that an injury to a growth plate may result in damaged cells that will halt growing on one side. In the meantime, the healthy, undamaged cells on the opposite side will continue to grow with the end result of the bone developing a deformity.

This X-ray vividly depicts why you should never permit puppies to jump, walk up/down stairs, over-exercise or over-train. Any type of high-impact activities or prolonged exercise on hard surfaces can potentially stunt the puppy’s bones, cause them to cease growing or grow in a crooked or misshapen way. This includes repetitious jumping to catch a Frisbee, jogging on concrete and hurdling full speed over or around obstacles with leg twisting movements. Further, puppies should be picked up and handled very carefully during this time as well. Doing too much activity or being incorrectly lifted while a puppy’s bones are still growing could cause dislocations, muscle tears as well as serious bone issues later in adulthood such as hip dysplasia and other orthopaedic conditions.

A good rule of thumb (Consider it the “Puppy Rule“🐶🐾) is a ratio of 5 minutes of exercise per month of age (up to twice a day) until the puppy is fully grown. For example, 15 minutes (up to twice a day) at 3 months old, 20 minutes when 4 months old, and so on until they are fully grown and can go out for much longer. After the age of 8 months, there is minimal longitudinal growth of bones going on, and by one year of age, most growth plates are fused or closed and no longer show on x-rays (source:Vet Surgery Central).

Physical activity for puppies should include- going for a walk or hike, training, Puppy Playtime, playing fetch, wrestling with other dogs, etc.

Another common cause of adolescent bone trauma or orthopaedic conditions is rapidly abnormal growth due to diet. Overfeeding your puppy can result in skeletal abnormalities, hip dysplasia (arthritis of the hips) and osteochondrosis (a condition that affects the joints of young, rapidly growing pups). A balanced diet is critical for good skeletal development and strong bones.

Puppies need plenty of hydration (you will notice that they drink a lot) and they require more protein, fat, vitamins and minerals than adult dogs. If you are cooking for your puppy, a homemade diet should contain proteins such as chicken, turkey, fish, lean beef. NO BONES or RAWHIDE!

Some Veterinarians may also recommend vitamins or supplements (glycosaminoglycans and chondroprotective agents) for high-risk breeds to help prevent damage to the growth plates.

While calcium supplements may sound like a good idea for developing strong bones, WARNING! Too much calcium can be JUST as dangerous as not getting enough. Consult with a vet and skilled nutritionist before giving any supplements or herbs and always ask about the nutritional needs of puppies when feeding a home-made or an all-meat diet.

Have fun with your new FURbaby; but remember, you wouldn’t make a 6 month old human baby run a marathon, so don’t make your puppy either!

Have a PAWSOME🐾🙏🐶 Day!

Dorothy Cline, Vet Tech Groomer Girl

This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. It is not meant to substitute for diagnosis, prognosis, treatment, prescription, or formal and individualized advice from a veterinary medical professional. Animals exhibiting signs and symptoms of distress should be seen by a veterinarian immediately.

petwellnessdirect.com/blogs/news/top-5-hypoallergenic-dogs

petwellnessdirect.com/blogs/news/medical-service-dogs-are-the-real-heroes

HBOT-Hyperbaric Oxygen Therapy. The word Hyperbaric means “under pressure higher than normal at sea level.” HBOT is emerging in veterinary medicine as an effective treatment or adjunct therapy for a variety of disorders in which improving oxygen delivery to tissues is a key.

Patients are exposed to high-pressure oxygen in a specially designed hyperbaric chamber, and the treatment effectively oxygenizes the body’s tissues.

Understanding how HBOT works starts with a review of some of the important laws of physics and their resultant effects on the body. [FIGURE].

According to The American College of Veterinary Medicine, “Delivery of 100% oxygen under pressure allows plasma to carry much more oxygen and reduces the importance of hemoglobin-based delivery.¹ 100% oxygen dissolved in plasma can be delivered from capillaries to tissues at least three times farther than delivered when carried by hemoglobin alone.^1,9 And, increasing barometric pressure from 1.0 ATA to between 2.0 and 2.5 ATA increases the dissolved oxygen in plasma approximately 3-fold compared with a patient breathing room air. When the inhaled oxygen concentration is increased to 100% under the same increased pressure, the plasma oxygen concentration increases by almost 17-fold. In theory, with 100% oxygen at 2.5 ATA, enough oxygen can be dissolved in plasma to meet the normal requirements of the body at rest without the need for hemoglobin.^1,9Oxygen under pressure causes vasoconstriction by inducing smooth muscle contraction in all muscular vessels (arterial and venous), but not capillaries or lymphatics, and decreasing bleeding/oozing from vessels while allowing lymphatic channels to continue to clean up and remove edema. The increased partial pressure of oxygen in plasma and the increased CO₂ in damaged tissues (CO₂ is a more potent vasodilator than oxygen is a vasoconstrictor), offset the vasoconstriction so that tissue oxygenation remains high and microvascular blood flow improves”.³

High oxygen concentration combined with an increase in air chamber pressure, which raises the plasma oxygen concentration to allow oxygen to diffuse into tissues at a higher rate than would be seen under normal circumstances. This higher rate of oxygen being delivered to tissues promotes healing.

HBOT is often used in combination with other forms of therapy to treat injuries and illnesses including infected wounds and burns, snake bites, post-surgical swelling, sepsis, pancreatitis, necrosis, and stroke. It reduces swelling and inflammation, eases pressure and edema caused by head or spinal cord injuries, stimulates new blood vessel formation in healing tissues, improves control of infection, and promotes overall wound healing. Dogs undergoing stem cell regeneration therapy can also benefit enormously from the treatment. Studies show that hyperbaric oxygen stimulates stem cell growth up to an astounding 8x their normal volume!

HBOT has also been used as adjunctive post-operative therapy in orthopedic cases in order to reduce swelling and speed healing. As a general rule, HBOT is most effective for acute conditions, although it has been shown to lessen pain and improve function in osteoarthritis, chronic intervertebral disk disease, long-term management of aspergillosis and many others.

🐶 🐾 WHAT TO EXPECT:

Prior to HBOT treatment, your FURbaby will undergo a general health evaluation, including ensuring that body temperature is normal, as increased body temperature can lead to an increase in oxygen uptake resulting in toxicity.

IN CONCLUSION: HBOT is well-tolerated by patients with no side effects most of the time. The only side effects recorded to-date included temporary ear problems or Barotrauma (Barotrauma refers to injuries in the ear caused by increased air or water pressure. Generalized barotrauma, also called decompression sickness, can affects the entire body). On occasion temporary blurry vision was documented.

As with ANY veterinary procedure or treatment, it is always recommended to have a follow-up visit to make sure your pet is completely recuperated.

ASK YOUR VET ABOUT HBOT TODAY!

Have a PAWsome Day! 🙏

💋 xoxo Vet Tech Groomer Girl

If your furry BFF is showing signs of increased stiffness, slowing down on walks, experiencing gait change or decrease in daily activities interest, your dog may be stressed or in pain and in need of a massage.

Clinical canine massage is a complimentary therapeutic treatment that is used to help support and resolve muscular dysfunction within your dog’s body that may be having a detrimental effect upon their mobility, behavior and overall quality of life. Canine Acupressure and massage uses skilled application and manipulation of muscles, tendons, fascia, joints and connective tissue, incorporating traditional massage techniques along with direct and indirect myofascial release protocols to support healing and movement.

Canine massage therapists are animal health professionals (Dorothy Cline aka Vet Tech Groomer Girl, is a Licensed Vet Nurse/Tech and Groomer) who use their knowledge of anatomy, physiology, acupressure and massage techniques to improve an animal’s physical well-being and aide in healing and often the post-operative recuperation process.

Canine massage and acupressure can be applied to any dog, whether young and active or senior and coping with long-term medical conditions such as arthritis or post-operative healing. The treatment will work to relieve muscular and connective tissue restrictions, spasms and contracture, decrease inflammation, increase joint flexibility and hydration, promote healing and provide some drug free pain relief thus aiding sleep, promoting relaxation and improving energy and mood.

If your dog is showing any of the following signs, please consider contacting Vet Tech Groomer Girl.

-Stiffness

-excessive licking or biting of forelimbs for no apparent reason

-Decrease In energy

-Twitches of the skin along the back, legs and ribcage

-Sudden dislike of being groomed or touched

-Difficulty going up and down stairs

-Change in gait

-Difficulty squatting when going potty

-Change in mood or lack of interest in normal playtime activities or toys

-Unusual aggression or antisocial behavior

The Ugly Truth About RAWHIDE!

How can one of the most popular chew sticks on the planet be so dangerous for your pets?

As a licensed Vet Tech, I have personally triaged dogs and assisted on many emergency surgeries from dogs consuming rawhide; either choking on it or developing dangerous bowel obstructions. Just check the product label. It ACTUALLY warns that these exact incidences can happen. Another major concern (besides intestinal blockage, pain, bloat, choking and death!) is where these rawhide chews are made.

So, let’s start with what the heck rawhide really is. The name ‘rawhide’ is technically incorrect. A more accurate name would be ‘processed-hide’, as the hide (skin) isn’t raw at all.

Rawhide is not dehydrated-meat or the by-product of the beef industry. Rawhide is actually the by-product of the “Leather Industry”, so theoretically it is a leather chew. Rawhide chews are made from the leather industry’s leftovers. Most hides are taken directly from the kill floors at slaughterhouses and placed into high-salt brines, which helps slow their decay (Insert gag reflex here!).

“Producing rawhide begins with the splitting of an animal hide, usually from cattle. The top layer (grain) is generally tanned and made into leather products, while the inner layer, in its “raw” state, goes to the dogs.” (TheBark.com )

The following is a paraphrased tutorial by The Whole Dog Journal from a few years ago. It explains in scary detail just how this toxic leather is processed and how it ends up in cute little enticing shapes and marketed directly to unassuming Pet Parents who innocently believe that rawhide is a dried “meat stick” and will release stress and reward our fury BFF’s with hours of fun. Wrong!

STEP 1: Normally, cattle hides are shipped from slaughterhouses to tanneries for processing. These hides are then soaked in brine and treated with a chemical bath to help “preserve” the product during transport and to help prevent spoilage. Keep in mind, some of these hides are shipping from China and other countries which means more chemicals as brine alone does not preserve.

Once at the tannery: the hides are soaked again and treated with either an ash-lye solution or a highly toxic recipe of sodium sulphide liming. This process will help strip the hair and fat (yuck!) that may be attached to the hides themselves. These hides are then treated with more chemicals that help “puff” the hide, making it easier to split into layers.

The outer layer of the hide is used for goods like car seats, clothing, shoes, handbags, luggage, etc. But, it’s the inner layer, (along with gelatin and glue!) that is needed to make the rawhide.

STEP 2: Now that we have the inner layer of the hide, it’s time to go to the post-tannery stage! Hides are washed and whitened using a solution of hydrogen peroxide, bleach (and even harsher chemical whiteners). These chemicals will also help mask the smell of the rotten leather. Yummm! 😡🤮

STEP 3: Now it’s time to make these whitened sheets of “leathery by-product” look delicious! This is where the creative artistic process comes in.

“Basted, smoked, and tinted (painted) products can be made literally any color (or shape and scent) underneath the coating made of yet more dyes and preservatives. They can even be painted with a coating of titanium oxide (what???!!!) to make them appear whiter and aesthetically pleasing from a merchandising perspective.”

“…the Material Safety Data Sheet reveals a toxic confection containing the carcinogen FD&C Red 40, along with preservatives like sodium benzoate. But tracking the effects of chemical exposure is nearly impossible when it’s a matter of slow, low-dose poisoning.”– (thebark.com)

STEP 4:

Because the FDA does not consider these chews to be “food”, it’s an open market when it comes to the manufacturers. You see, with no restrictions on these leather strips (since they are not considered consumable food by the FDA), they are free to add basically anything to these chewies, to ensure that they last forever. Any type of glue may be added to get them to hold together and last forever. WHEN TESTED: Lead, arsenic, mercury, chromium salts, formaldehyde, and other toxic chemicals have been detected in raw hide chews. .

Rawhide chews start out hard, but as your dog works the chew it becomes softer, and eventually he can unknot the knots on each end and the chew takes on the consistency of a slimy piece of taffy or bubble gum. And by that time your dog cannot stop working it — it becomes almost addictive.

Some Healthy Alternatives to Rawhide:

-Antlers. Deer and elk antlers are fantastic treats for your pet.

-Sweet Potato Chews. Sweet potatoes are the ultimate light snack for your pup and good for the digestion. HOWEVER very high in carbs. So moderate.

-Frozen Carrots. Frozen carrots are natural treats that most dogs love.

-Greenies

-Bully Stix

-Zuke’s Dental 🦷Bones